Sumptuous to Sympathique: Taking Tea All Over Paris

By Sally Peabody There is a dimension to savoring Paris that is totally missed by many knowledgeable visitors—and no wonder, what with the whirl of inviting bistros, alluring cafés, characterful wine bars and luminous patisseries. Tea salons, embedded as they are in quotidian Parisian life, provide a readily accessible source of relaxation and enjoyment for those in the know. And while such establishments tend to be truly convivial, they reach far beyond conviviality alone—for the notable Parisian tea salons are luring connoisseurs from around the world to savor a broad and broadening spectrum of the very finest leaves that anyone can find.

The city’s tea-world operates on a spectrum that ranges marvelously in mood. Some salons envelop the visitor in gilded sumptuousness. Others are cheery, even cosily cluttered, set in brick or stone interiors beneath exposed beams. Some are artfully designed, while others are simply haven-like spaces where it’s “all” about the tea. Most of the salons are, in some notable way, reflective of their proprietor’s intense tea-passions and particular expertise. And they are to be found in just about every neighborhood.

Variety abounds in the style and scope of service. Some of the salons offer delectable hot chocolate and coffees along with their menu of tea selections. Some even serve simple meals, which makes them desirable for those seeking a light lunch or a pre-theatre supper. And while most of the establishments serve French patisserie, some salons feature Asian or Arabic sweets to accompany their blends. Plus, certain well-stocked shops that specialize in an alluring array of tea selections and tea-related accessories encourage on-the-spot sampling in an adjoining room. One thing is consistent, to be sure: in each and every true Salon de Thé, exploration and enjoyment of the featured blends is clearly the focus.

For those seeking splendid settings in which to sample exotic teas, the three elegant salons of Ladurée, 16 rue Royale, 75 avenue des Champs Elysées, or 21 rue Bonaparte, and, Bernaudaud, 11 rue Royale, along with the art- nouveau surrounds of Angelina, 226 rue de Rivoli, simply can’t be beat. In addition, Mariage Frères, the venerable tea-company with an astonishing number of drawers containing untold treasures, offers two charming salons side-by-side with atmospheric, well-stocked shops. Each of these establishments features a soothing colonial ambience, and they are well located, one in the Marais, 30-32 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, and the other in the Latin Quarter, 13 rue des Grands Augustins.

For those who consider themselves cognoscenti, one of the hottest new Salons de Thé, La Maison des Trois Thés, 33 rue Gracieuse, is a must-visit destination. This sleek, architect-designed boutique in the 5th arrondissement is owned and run by Madame Tseng, one of only ten recognized tea-masters in the world. Maitre Tseng specializes in Chinese teas, and particularly in top-quality, rare, Taiwanese bleu-vert (Oolong) varieties. Hers is a lovely salon in which to sip (and to buy) an exceptional array of extraordinary offerings from the literally hundreds available.

Each of the quintessentially Parisian establishments mentioned above is close to the destinations that top most visitors’ lists. But there are numerous other worthy choices! For instance, when shopping in St. Germain des Prés, you can slip into the serene La Maison du Thé, 76 rue Bonaparte, directly across the Place from the church of St. Sulpice. On offer here are unusual, top-quality Chinese teas, chosen by the expert owner on her annual buying trips to her favorite small-scale tea-plantations in the Far East. You can savor one of twenty-plus selections, many of which she says she chooses for their various restorative properties. Your blend will be served in a handcrafted teapot that has been thoughtfully selected for its particular, flavor-enhancing shape. And, if you so desire, you can opt to experience a traditional tea-ceremony, steeping the entire occasion in quiet sophistication. At Le Maison du Thé, small plates of seasonally chosen Asian patisserie, possessing what the owner considers to be either “yin” or “yang” properties, accompany the teas. And a kiosk outside the salon offers the entire inventory for sale.

The variety of tea salons throughout St. Germain des Prés is reflective of the extraordinary abundance of shopping and cultural options in this destination quartier. In addition to the aforementioned Maison de Thé, consider visiting the elegant Les Nuits des Thés, set amid myriad antique shops and specialty boutiques, 22 rue de Beaune, or perhaps the cheerful Concertea, 3 rue Paul-Louis Courier. Other good choices include Fôret Noire, 9 rue de l’Eperon, or the elegant Rollet-Pradier, 6 rue de Bourgogne.

Nearby, just over the line in Montparnasse, the trés sympathique Tea and Tattered Pages, 24 rue Mayet, is well worth seeking out for its homey comforts, fine teas and abundance of reading materials. And close to the Eiffel Tower and Rodin Museum, Pegoty’s, 79 avenue Bosquet, is a great option for relaxing over English-style teas in a calm, brick-walled space that invites conversation.

Moving to another part of Paris, this time across the Seine, and near the many excellent small museums within the Trocadero, a salon called Carette, 4 Place du Trocadero, has long been a destination for savvy sippers. In addition, two worthy 8th arrondissement destinations, (close by the shopping mecca of fashions’ famed ‘Golden Triangle), are Handmade, (renowned for shortbread), 19 rue Jean-Mermoz, and the Café at the Musée Jacquémart André, 158 Boulevard Haussmann. This stunning café serves light meals and graces the taking of tea with Tiepolo-painted, gilded ceilings and other glorious art.

What about the 1st and 2nd arrondisements? Tea-lovers have many excellent options in “inner” Paris as well. A stop in the gallerie Vivienne, a beautifully restored nineteenth century Passage Couvert, will bring one to A Priori Thé, 35 galerie Vivienne, a chic and companionable haven for ready relaxation. There is a hard-to-say-no-to array of patisserie on offer, including the salon’s highly regarded brownies. And nearby, the lovely Muscade, 36 rue de Monpensier, is tucked in among the intriguing shops within the arcades of the tranquil Palais Royale. Here you can savor your afternoon tea either indoors in restful surroundings, or else at outdoor tables-- the better to enjoy the fountains, gardens and surrounds of this stunning urban space.

For travelers who find themselves near the Louvre, the atmospheric Verlet, 256 rue Saint- Honoré, is yet another felicitous destination for anyone seeking to sample an extensive collection of top quality teas (and also coffees). You can sip on site, or else purchase your favorites to take home. Or, then again, if you are near the Place de la Concorde, you can bask in a refined Japanese ambience at Toraya, 10 rue St. Florentin.

When exploring the Ile St. Louis, tea-fanciers have a choice of two cozy salons along the principal street of this upscale island. First, the characterful La Charlotte de L’Ile, 24, rue St. Louis-en-Ile, offers puppet shows on Wednesday afternoons, and, quite often, live piano music to accompany its menu of delectable beverages, including fine teas and redolent chocolate chaud. Second, Au Lys D’Argent, 90 rue St.-Louis-en-Ile, presents a carte of over forty varieties of tea, augmented by a choice of light meals.

Moving again beyond immediately central Paris, the energized Marais quartier is home to several hospitable tea-salons. In addition to the aforementioned Mariage Frères, try Le Loir Dans La Théirere, 3 rue des Rosiers, or the funky, relaxed, Les Enfants Gatés, 43 rue des Francs Bourgeois. And when visiting the bustling Latin Quarter, your choices include La Maison des Trois Thés, described above, and the charming, shaded courtyard at the Mosquée de Paris, 39 rue Geoffroy-Saint Hilaire, where traditional Arabic mint tea is featured. In addition, there is the small and charming English-style Tea Caddy, 14 rue Saint Julien le Pauvre. And another good Latin Quarter tea-choice is A La Cour de Rohan, 59-61 rue St. Andre-des-Arts, featuring over twenty varieties of teas in a warm and friendly setting. Plus, just off Boulevard St. Michel, and facing the Luxembourg Gardens, Dalloyau, at 2 Place Edmund Rostand, is a classic spot to munch macaroons with your tea (or to enjoy some other selection of surpassing patisserie, if you prefer).

Other destination-quality options for purchasing and sampling teas include the incomparable gourmet-specialty stores, Fauchon and Hédiard, both located on Place de la Madeleine. And right nearby, the boutique of the world-renowned tea merchants, Betjeman and Barton, while not possessing a tearoom per-se, often presents its customers with steaming cups of perfectly brewed elixir as they browse through the exceptional range of retail selections.

Finally, numerous Paris boulangeries include adjoining tearooms which offer light-salads or varied sandwiches as accompaniments to their beverage selection, or else provide café-style seating for enjoying your treats on-site. Two such establishments worth remembering are André Cléret, 4 rue des Lavandieres-Sainte-Opportune, which is located just off the quais of the Seine and quite near the Chatélet metro interchange, and J.C. Gaulupeau, set in the heart of St. Germain des Prés, 12 rue Mabillon.