Favorite Sites

Shopping Paris: A Girl’s Own guide

Searching for something special to send back home or for your petite maison? Look no further than the Artist's Market in the Bastille. Every Saturday, a hundred or more stalls, with around 300 artists, line the Boulevard Richard Lenoir, from the Place de la Bastille up. I learned about this market from Isabelle Augé, a talented painter I'd met three years earlier when my mother bought me one of her beautiful watercolors of the Pont Neuf as a Christmas gift. A few months ago, I walked out of the Meurice and straight into Isabelle, who had her easel set up beneath the arcades. We'd only met once before but remembered each other well, and I was interested in buying more of her art for gifts.

Unfortunately, Isabelle wasn't there the day I went to the market, but I found many other things to keep me happy. You'll find art, sculptures, pottery, clothing, and some gorgeous jewelry for great prices. Top of my favorites list are Agnès Leblond, who specializes in glass and crystal jewelry, and Valerie Beilles, who makes jewelry as well as unique clothing pieces. You could easily spend an afternoon happily wandering around here, soaking up the friendly atmosphere. One artist even offered us a hot chocolate to keep away the winter chill, and many others were sharing their lunches on card tables.

Le Marché de la Création
Boulevard Rochard Lenoir, 75011

Métro: Bastille
Every Saturday, 10.00-19.00

So, the big news is that the winter sales officially start January 12. Got your list? I have (sweaters, boots, Lancaster red bag with the heart clasp, anything else I fall in love with on the day - uh oh!), but I'm also in the market for some good bed linen and a feather bed. Luckily, the department stores have got their white sales on now. Both Printemps and La Samaritaine have got up to 40% off bedding, curtains and kitchen linens until February 5.

My expat tip of the week: Looking for a good read to keep the chill away, but balking at the prices you can pay in the English-language bookstores? Good news, book fiends: Amazon France will bring in just about any book you can find on the US and UK sites for around the same price, and right now, there's free shipping for purchases over €20. (It was even better before Christmas, when all deliveries were free.) Ok, so it can take up to 2 weeks, but who cares, when it's delivered to your door and you save those precious euros; I bought a book at Brentano's for €13.30, only to find it for €11 on Amazon. At the rate I go through books, those savings can add up.

And when you're done with the book and don't want it taking up valuable space in your chambre de bonne, what do you do? Head off for the secondhand bookstores, of course. One of the best Paris has to offer is Tea and Tattered Pages, on Rue Mayet in the 6th (right near the cute boys at PrimeTime Video). OK, so I admit I didn't even know it was there until I was walking a friend's dog past the store, only to be accosted by a big ginger cat, who playfully biffed Cherry on the snout then smelled her all over. Of course, with an intro like that, I had to follow him into the store, where I found thousands of books and a little tea room at the back, a spot just perfect for tea and cake after a long day. With some loving from Ming the cat, it's one of those places that makes Paris Paris, even if it is run by Americans. (You can pick up your copies of FUSAC and Irish Voice here, too.)

Tea and Tattered Pages
24, rue Mayet, 75006
Tel: 01.40.65.94.35
Métro: Duroc
Open Monday-Saturday 11.00-19.00; Sunday 12.00-18.00

Got a Ming of your own? Then Chat-Bada is the place for you. This tiny store in the Latin Quarter is packed with accessories for cats and the humans who love them. For my own moggies, I scored solid Melamine dishes in the shape of a cat's face for only €12 each, and I want to go back for the toaster. Then there's the t-shirts, socks, scarves, sculptures, bags, clocks, jewelry, coffee cups, and much, much more. Expect a warm welcome, lovely gift wrapping, and people of like minds; when I was there, a young guy rushed in, grabbed a coffee mug and gushed, "J'adore mon chat!" And yes, I do believe he was straight. Just French.

Chat-Bada
23 bis, rue des Ecoles, 75005
Tel: 01.43.54.27.86
Métro: Cardinal Lemoine
Open every day 11.00-19.30
http://www.chat-bada.com

It only makes sense, considering I live in the City of Lights, that I would fall in love with the electric guirlandes you see all over the place. Some look a little dorm-roomish, but not those at Via Motif. This California-based company, whose products are available widely throughout the US and Canada, moved into Saint-Germain just over a year ago, and has attracted a lot of attention with their crisp, Asian-inspired design. I'm a big fan of their Line Lights, which comes in 20 different designs. Prices range from €38 for the galvanized metal up to €120 for the organza. Yes, I know, but they really are elegant and add warmth to your home. If lights aren't your thing, then check out their woven pandan boxes and trays for organizing your office with style. And their coffee tables double as storage space--perfect for those small Parisian spaces.

Via Motif
74, rue Mazarine, 75006
Tel: 01.43.29.17.30
Métro: Odéon
http://www.viamotif.com

And now for the neighborhood-nosh tip. If you happen to be in the 17th arrondissement--and why wouldn't you be? It might be quiet compared to other parts of Paris, but it's a great neighborhood--pop into Casa Roma at 63 av. de Saint-Ouen. It's no Phillipe-Starck-inspired haven--in fact, you can easily spend most of your evening trying to work out what the hell they were thinking, with the vines painted on the wall blending not very subtly into the Michaelangelo ceiling--but you'll forget that when your meal is plonked in front of you. This is good, hearty food at a price that's not going to give you heart failure. The ticket last week, for a kir, sausage pizza, tiramisu and cappuccino came to around €15. You're not going to find any up and coming Ducasses lurking in the kitchen, either, but the guys who run the show are friendly and accommodating, and if you smile sweetly, you might just end up with a complimentary Frangelico to see you on your way. Good news: they've got some great vegetarian choices and the pizza can be ordered to go.

Casa Roma
63, av. de Saint-Ouen, 75017
Tel: 01.42.26.48.82
Métro: Guy Moquet (take the Rue Lamarck exit and it's right across the street)

Can't make it to Paris right now? I feel your pain, and have got something to make it all better. This beautiful book comes in at almost 1000 pages, and features quotes and texts from many French celebrities, amongst them Alain Ducasse, George Sand, Sonia Rykiel and Victor Hugo. But the real draw is the stunning photographs by Max Derhy. A lot of familiar places shown, but many others are obscure and will go straight on your list for discovering when you're in town once more. Sorry, available only on the Amazon France site, and the €13 postage fee might put you off, but hey, it's cheaper than a flight. (And the book weighs at least 2 kilos.)

Paris, released by Assouline
€42.25 on Amazon, €45 in stores
ISBN: 2843236428

I have no qualms in admitting I've got a bit of a thing for firemen, especially those Paris pompiers in their short shorts and silver helmets. I'd like to say it's purely as a support gesture that I buy their fundraising calendar whenever possible, but really, you need to see the photos to truly understand. I picked up this year's today from some pompiers outside BHV, who were most accommodating, if a little bemused, when I asked them to hold my cat's leash while I got out my wallet. If you hurry, you can get a calender, too; indulge in a little flirting while (seriously) supporting a very worthwhile cause.