Rue de Commerce—Shopper’s Delight

By Lisa Anselmo  


Rue de Commerce—Commerce Street. Could any place be more aptly named? This little street in the 15th runs only from Boulevard de Grenelle to Rue des Entrepreneurs and yet is packed with every type of boutique, café, pâtisserie, pharmacie and chocolatier a shopper could ever want. In fact, on my biannual trips to Paris when I only have a few days to stock up on all my goodies, I head straight to this little street and do all my shopping in one day—from beauty products to lingerie to my favorite French delicacies.
 
A visitor to Paris might never find the Rue de Commerce:  it’s in a residential area that’s not particularly remarkable except for its tidy little streets and immaculate white stone apartment buildings. I stumbled upon this shopping mecca when I was visiting a friend of mine who lived at 78 Rue de Commerce. Monoprix, Marionnaud, Etam, Petit Bateau, Sephora—and more—are all in one place and all in an intimate, neighborhood setting. What could be better?
 
Let’s go shopping. Take the métro (6, 8, 10) to La Motte Picquet Grenelle and start at Monoprix, what I like to call the “French Target.” On the first floor start with the pharmacie, where you can find every sort of health and beauty aid imaginable, from uniquely French brands to brands you know (but with less perfume than the American versions). Nose around and take a look—you’ll find things you never imagined, like beauty pills by Oebenol. Pick up some funky toothpaste and creams to remind you­—in an every -day way—of your trip abroad. You can find great inexpensive gifts like Roger & Gallet soaps and luxe baby products from Klorane. Next, head over to the makeup and peruse the multitude of “drug store” brands. There are the usuals like Maybelline (Gemey in France) and L’Oréal but also brands that would cost a mint in the U.S.: Biguine, Bourjois and an inexpensive line from Makeup Forever called “YOURS.” But the best part is that at Monoprix you can test the products before you buy (try that at Target), and the helpful clerks show you the best colors for you. Before you leave the first floor, try on some darling lingerie and pick up some stockings from DIM. The same ones in the states would cost you three times the price.
 
Follow your nose to the grocery section on the second floor. You can buy Fouquet chocolate and French wines but also every-day grocery items that the French take for granted but that you will swoon over. Pick up condiments like Benedicta mayonnaise in a tube (egg-y!), Albert Ménès Moutard de Champagne, Herbamare flavored sea salt, St.-Christophe “3 Poivres” or béarnaise sauces. Look for unexpected treats like chestnut spread from Clement Faugier, caviar d’aubergines from Reflets de France, canned tuna from Petit Navire that is ten times better than Chicken of the Sea (sorry, Charlie). If you’re adventurous, you can try some inexpensive caviar (I bought Fjord King) and fois gras de canard from Micouleau. Don’t expect gourmet, but it is several notches above the deviled food spread from back home. (For the best store-brand fois gras look for Labeyrie or Larnaudie.) These gourmet goodies would cost heaps more at Dean and Deluca in NYC, and they make great gifts, too. Before you leave, you might want to buy an expandable Monoprix tote to tuck in your purse or pocket. Since this is only your first stop on the Rue de Commerce shopping tour, you’re going to need it. (Monoprix Commerce, 01.45.79.94.86; monoprix.com)
 
Next stop: Marionnaud for perfumes and prestige beauty products, like creams and makeup from Lancôme, Clarins, Sisley, Biotherm, Chanel, Lancaster, Decleor and more. Here’s where you take out the gift list. There are products for men too, from colognes to skincare products from Clarins, Biotherm, and Shiseido, to name a few. Keep in mind:  prestige brands tend to be pricey, but some are still less expensive than in the States. Price your favorite items back home before you shop to be sure you are still getting a deal (don’t forget the exchange rate). But not to worry, the friendly, helpful staff will throw free samples in your bag to sweeten the deal. Ask about the Marionnaud points card. (marionnaud.com)
 
Ready for lunch? Just visit to one of the many cafés, boulangeries, cheese shops, pâtisseries, and other food shops that line this bustling little street. I like the Salon de Thé on the corner of Commerce and Boulevard des Entrepreneurs for a little sit-down at an outside table to watch the passers by as I recharge. Or, do as the Parisians do: buy a baguette or sandwich of jambon et brie and eat while you walk to your next shopping destination.
 
Now that you’re refreshed, it’s time to check out some of the little boutiques for the latest in French fashions. There are plenty of stores for every taste in clothing, shoes, even jewelry. Be choosy:  between the exchange rate and Paris prices, it can get expensive. Don’t get sucked in--nearly every style comes to H&M sooner or later. Pick up something special, like luxury hosiery from the Wolford shop or French lingerie from Etam or one of the other beautiful boutiques. The best deal in Rue du Commerce? Petit Bateau. This company makes children’s clothes out of the softest cotton you’ll ever feel. But, every grown up fashionista knows their children’s t-shirts make THE perfect tight little fashion tee—for only 12 euros! The Petit Bateau on Madison Avenue charges twice as much. (Petit Bateau, 55 Rue du Commerce, 01.45.77.88.00)
 
Close by on the other side of the street, you’ll find Pharmacie Centrale, my favorite pharmacy in Paris. Here you’ll find LaRoche-Posay, the premiere skincare line. The store has products you can buy only at a pharmacy or a dermatologist’s office. I consider their makeup to be the finest on the market. The foundations are flawless (22 euros); the blushes are long lasting and natural (about 12 euros). Everything is fragrance free and finely milled. The sunscreen line, Anthelios, recently written up in The New York Times (6/09/05), is impossible to get in the U.S. The pharmacist will explain all the products to you. And while you have her ear, tell her what ails you (pains? insomnia? bloating?) and see what she recommends—there are plenty of other goodies at the Pharmacie Centrale. For more on French pharmacies see “Beautiful Obsession” on this site. (Pharmacie Centrale, 54 Rue du Commerce, 01.45.79.75.01)
I could go on for another 1200 words, but you must see it for yourself. Whatever you’re looking for is in the Rue du Commerce: Clothes and bread, shoes and wine, pastries and lingerie, makeup and chocolate, housewares and jewelry—even a haircut (see Lucas at Jean Louis David). It’s easy to spend an entire day here. And if you’re tired and hungry after all your shopping, just fall into the historic Le Café du Commerce for dinner. The café’s latest owner, the chic Etienne Guerraud, keeps this multi-level establishment bustling by serving great food with prompt service at good prices. (Le Café du Commerce, 51 Rue du Commerce, 01.45.75.03.27, lecafeducommerce.com)
On your next trip to Paris, don't be lured by the chic boutiques of the 1st and 2nd and the hipster cafés of the 5th & 6th. Instead, shop where the locals do. You won’t find as many English-speaking clerks as in the Champs-Elysée, but what you will find is everything else.