La Boulangerie: A Gem of a Restaurant du Quartier
La Boulangerie: A Gem of a Restaurant du Quartier
During every Paris trip I make it a point to head to this favorite of mine in multicultural Menilmontant, and it always is well worth the journey. The décor is simple. This one-time bakery offers two adjoining rooms (one nonsmoking), both of which are pleasantly paneled with light wood walls. Each room features tall, lace-curtained windows and pastoral frescoes painted by local artists who consider La Boulangerie their “local.” The chef has a deft hand with spices and offers deeply flavored, yet light, French cuisine. At 13,50 euros for a top-quality, three-course bistro lunch, this has to be one of the best buys in Paris.
A recent lunch with two friends (one a vegetarian) yielded three excellent meals. We began our repast with an unusual Kir Mousseaux (white wine and crème de Chataigne) while we studied both the formules for the day and the à la carte menu. Delicious crusty bread, herbed olives, and water were placed on the table as soon as the menus were presented. La Boulangerie offers a variety of formulas, entrée and plat, entrée-plat-dessert, or plat and glass of wine, topping out at 13,50 euros for lunch.
My vegetarian friend was delighted with his entrée of caviar d’aubergine, incorporating fresh herbs and flavored oils. This was followed by a richly satisfying oeuf en cocotte with cream of fine herbs and brioche toasts. He was delighted that the server considered several options with him rather than announcing immediately that he could have an “assiette de legumes,” although that would have undoubtedly been delicious too! The meat-and-fish fanciers chose entrées of a tartare of salmon perfumed with citronelle and coriander and a tarte au chevre et jambon. These were followed by plats of cracklingly good coquelette with verjus and honey, and osso buco in a lovely light olive and tomato sauce scented with épices douce. Desserts were a rich and deeply caramelized tarte tatin, a textbook-perfect crème brûlee, and a rich tarte sable chocolat. A 50-centiliter pot of Côtes du Rhone for 10 euros was a fine accompaniment. Dark, rich café completed these soul-satisfying meals.
The four-choice entrée, plat, and desert formule menu always includes a fish selection. On this day it was brandade de grenadier with olive oil and herbs. The à la carte menu regularly offers a range of tempting choices, including confit of lamb, rouget with anchoiade, veal, beef, duck, and more. The food is always attractively presented.
Dinner plats run 13-16 euros, and the formule runs 16,50. There are abundant options for well chosen wines for under 20 euros a bottle as well as 50 centiliter pots of Chinon, Côte du Rhone, or vin du pays du Drôme for 10. Wines by the glass run 4.
Lunch or dinner at La Boulangerie is unquestionably worth the short trip by bus or métro from central Paris. Just across the small place on rue Panoyaux, the same owners operate Lou Pascalou, a convivial little bar/café that often has live music at night. La Boulangerie is also a great spot to enjoy a mid-day meal after exploring nearby Père Lachaise cemetery, the Park de Belleville, the multi-cultural Belleville/Menilmontant quartiers, or even the Canal St- Martin. But no excuse is needed. Just hop on the métro to the Menilmontant stop and have a terrific meal for not much more than you’d spend for a salad in an average café in central Paris.
La Boulangerie. 15 rue des Panoyaux, 75020 Paris.
Telephone: 01 43 58 45 45 www.restaulaboulangerie.com
Métro: Menilmontant. Bus # 96.
Open Monday-Sat. Lunch- noon-2:30 Dinner: 7-10:30.
Sally Peabody is a travel advisor and writer specializing in Paris Her company, Your Great Days in Paris, advises independent travelers on getting to their best in and around Paris--
