Inexpensive Paris: Hotels and Accomodations
When you think of Paris , "inexpensive vacation" is not usually the first thing that comes to mind; after all, Paris is one of the most glamorous cities in the world. Glamour and inexpensive don't normally go hand and hand. Sure, Paris can be expensive, but it's also full of wonderfully inexpensive treasures -- you just have to know where to unearth them.
Our guide takes you to some of our favorite places in Paris that won't leave you bankrupt.
RESTAURANTS
Paris —home of haute cuisine—can certainly be one of the world's most expensive cities for dining. You can easily drop a few hundred bucks on one meal alone, but that doesn't mean that bargins don't exist. Bargains abound in Paris ; you just have to know where to look.
Polidor
This Left Bank Institution has been serving authentic bistro cuisine at rock-bottom prices since the 19th century. The food gets mixed reviews and some say that it's seen better days, but you certainly can't beat the price (18 € for the three-course prix-fixe); the jovial atmosphere and shared tables makes for quite an experience. Expect traditional bistro cooking like escargots, blanquette de veau, lentils with foie gras, steak frites and saddle of lamb.
41, rue Monsieur le Prince, 6th. Métro: Odéon. Open daily, Mon-Sat noon-2:30, 7pm - 12:30 ; Sun noon-2:30, 7-11:30pm .
This Left Bank Institution has been serving authentic bistro cuisine at rock-bottom prices since the 19th century. The food gets mixed reviews and some say that it's seen better days, but you certainly can't beat the price (18 € for the three-course prix-fixe); the jovial atmosphere and shared tables makes for quite an experience. Expect traditional bistro cooking like escargots, blanquette de veau, lentils with foie gras, steak frites and saddle of lamb.
41, rue Monsieur le Prince, 6th. Métro: Odéon. Open daily, Mon-Sat noon-2:30, 7pm - 12:30 ; Sun noon-2:30, 7-11:30pm .
Le Petit Vatel
This charming little bistro with sunny yellow walls, just a few steps from Saint-Germain, is a true bargain. The owner runs practically the whole show, dashing back and forth between the kitchen and dining room. Entrées run between 4-5 €, main courses are 10 €, and desserts are another 5 €. The menu changes daily and everything is freshly prepared. Expect simple French cuisine with a Mediterranean accent.
5, rue Lobineau, 6th. Metro: Mabillion. Open Tues-Sat noon-2:00; 8:10:30 .
This charming little bistro with sunny yellow walls, just a few steps from Saint-Germain, is a true bargain. The owner runs practically the whole show, dashing back and forth between the kitchen and dining room. Entrées run between 4-5 €, main courses are 10 €, and desserts are another 5 €. The menu changes daily and everything is freshly prepared. Expect simple French cuisine with a Mediterranean accent.
5, rue Lobineau, 6th. Metro: Mabillion. Open Tues-Sat noon-2:00; 8:10:30 .
Au Virage Lepic
A Parisian friend who lives in Montmartre first recommended this sleepy little bistro near the Basilique Sacré-Coeur. He touted it as the best bistro in Montmartre —a real neighborhood treasure. I soon found out that it was a bargain to boot and was thrilled with my dinner from start to finish. I opted for the amazing prix fixe that was only 15 € for two courses. The warm duck salad was delicious, as was my roasted pork with buttery noodles. A definite winner!
61, rue Lepic, 18th. Métro: Blanche or Abbesses.
A Parisian friend who lives in Montmartre first recommended this sleepy little bistro near the Basilique Sacré-Coeur. He touted it as the best bistro in Montmartre —a real neighborhood treasure. I soon found out that it was a bargain to boot and was thrilled with my dinner from start to finish. I opted for the amazing prix fixe that was only 15 € for two courses. The warm duck salad was delicious, as was my roasted pork with buttery noodles. A definite winner!
61, rue Lepic, 18th. Métro: Blanche or Abbesses.
Chartier
I fell in love with Chartier while attending the Sorbonne one summer many years ago at age 22. I returned more recently some ten years later and although I was less impressed with the food I was still as thrilled as ever with the atmosphere—a grand cavernous restaurant, filled with throngs of hungry people being served by waiters in black vests and long white aprons. This is the kind of restaurant that only exists in Paris . The prices are incredibly inexpensive (prix fixe-12 €) and the experience is something that everyone should try at least once.
7, rue du Faubourg Montmartre , 9th. Metro: Grand Boulevards. Open: Daily 11:30am - 3pm. 6pm - 10pm.
I fell in love with Chartier while attending the Sorbonne one summer many years ago at age 22. I returned more recently some ten years later and although I was less impressed with the food I was still as thrilled as ever with the atmosphere—a grand cavernous restaurant, filled with throngs of hungry people being served by waiters in black vests and long white aprons. This is the kind of restaurant that only exists in Paris . The prices are incredibly inexpensive (prix fixe-12 €) and the experience is something that everyone should try at least once.
7, rue du Faubourg Montmartre , 9th. Metro: Grand Boulevards. Open: Daily 11:30am - 3pm. 6pm - 10pm.
La Cave de l'Os à Moelle
This little table d'hôte in the 15th is one of my favorite restaurants in Paris —at any price. It's fun, the food is great and the price is an unbeatable 20 € for five courses—yes, five! It's owned by the same chef who also owns the highly recommended L'Os à Moelle, a more upscale bistro across the street and shares the same kitchen. Seating is at large communal tables, the menu is set and you even serve yourself. It's kind of like eating with friends. A typical meal begins with platters of bulots, an escargot creature from the sea, and tiny peel-and-eat shrimp. Rabbit terrine and delicious rillettes are also laid out. Next you help yourself to a steaming bowl of delicious soup sitting on the antique stove. Main courses might include a grandmotherly chicken stew or pig cheeks braised with lentils (which were superb). Next, help yourself to the cheese board, but save room for the astonishing number of homemade desserts such as rice pudding, poached pears, and tart tatin. Wines are inexpensive as well; since the restaurant doubles as a wine store, you pay wine store prices.
181, rue de Lourmel, 15th. Métro: Lourmel. 01-45-57-28-28.
This little table d'hôte in the 15th is one of my favorite restaurants in Paris —at any price. It's fun, the food is great and the price is an unbeatable 20 € for five courses—yes, five! It's owned by the same chef who also owns the highly recommended L'Os à Moelle, a more upscale bistro across the street and shares the same kitchen. Seating is at large communal tables, the menu is set and you even serve yourself. It's kind of like eating with friends. A typical meal begins with platters of bulots, an escargot creature from the sea, and tiny peel-and-eat shrimp. Rabbit terrine and delicious rillettes are also laid out. Next you help yourself to a steaming bowl of delicious soup sitting on the antique stove. Main courses might include a grandmotherly chicken stew or pig cheeks braised with lentils (which were superb). Next, help yourself to the cheese board, but save room for the astonishing number of homemade desserts such as rice pudding, poached pears, and tart tatin. Wines are inexpensive as well; since the restaurant doubles as a wine store, you pay wine store prices.
181, rue de Lourmel, 15th. Métro: Lourmel. 01-45-57-28-28.
Le Relais de Venise
When I lived in the 16th arrondissement, I would watch with curiosity as throngs of people would line up outside a nearby restaurant. What on earth was so good that French people would be queuing up by 8pm ? So, to beat the crowd, my friend and I made sure we arrived at 7pm sharp, when the doors first opened. Once seated in the pretty bistro- like atmosphere we were asked one question: "La cuisson, s'il vous plaît" or in English, "how do ya want that cooked?" As you see, the Relais de Venise serves only one thing—steak frites. No fish, no poultry, no pasta—just steak. And they do it pretty darn well. First you are brought a simple salad of iceberg lettuce, walnuts, and blue cheese; then comes the tender, perfectly cooked steak with a delicious sauce and a mound of hot, crisp French fries. You finish your first plate and then the waitress is back to serve you your second helping. And the price? 20 € for a no-nonsense steak dinner. Pas mal, I'd say. Plus the whole experience is lots of fun. And if you can't make it out to the 16th, they have two sister restaurants in the 6th and the 8th, which follow the same concept. Just be sure to arrive early or be prepared to wait!
271, blvd Pereire, 17th. Métro: Porte Maillot.
When I lived in the 16th arrondissement, I would watch with curiosity as throngs of people would line up outside a nearby restaurant. What on earth was so good that French people would be queuing up by 8pm ? So, to beat the crowd, my friend and I made sure we arrived at 7pm sharp, when the doors first opened. Once seated in the pretty bistro- like atmosphere we were asked one question: "La cuisson, s'il vous plaît" or in English, "how do ya want that cooked?" As you see, the Relais de Venise serves only one thing—steak frites. No fish, no poultry, no pasta—just steak. And they do it pretty darn well. First you are brought a simple salad of iceberg lettuce, walnuts, and blue cheese; then comes the tender, perfectly cooked steak with a delicious sauce and a mound of hot, crisp French fries. You finish your first plate and then the waitress is back to serve you your second helping. And the price? 20 € for a no-nonsense steak dinner. Pas mal, I'd say. Plus the whole experience is lots of fun. And if you can't make it out to the 16th, they have two sister restaurants in the 6th and the 8th, which follow the same concept. Just be sure to arrive early or be prepared to wait!
271, blvd Pereire, 17th. Métro: Porte Maillot.
Café Constant
If only every corner café were as good as Café Constant. This tiny café, in a picturesque part of the 7th arrondissement, was recently taken over by Christian Constant, one of the most respected and well known chefs in Paris . In simple surroundings you'll dine on traditional French cuisine that puts others in its class to shame. The food is fresh, simple, and remarkably inexpensive. My last meal included a perfect salad served with fresh sardines, followed by foie de veau with a creamy potato gratin. Dessert was a delicious peach melba. We washed it all down with a refreshing bottle of Saumur Champigny from the Loire . The total, including tax and tip, came to less than 30 €, which is tremendous considering the quality and care that went into each dish. It hasn't taken long for Café Constant to become a hit, however, so be prepared to wait.
139, rue Saint-Dominque, 7th. Closed Sunday.
If only every corner café were as good as Café Constant. This tiny café, in a picturesque part of the 7th arrondissement, was recently taken over by Christian Constant, one of the most respected and well known chefs in Paris . In simple surroundings you'll dine on traditional French cuisine that puts others in its class to shame. The food is fresh, simple, and remarkably inexpensive. My last meal included a perfect salad served with fresh sardines, followed by foie de veau with a creamy potato gratin. Dessert was a delicious peach melba. We washed it all down with a refreshing bottle of Saumur Champigny from the Loire . The total, including tax and tip, came to less than 30 €, which is tremendous considering the quality and care that went into each dish. It hasn't taken long for Café Constant to become a hit, however, so be prepared to wait.
139, rue Saint-Dominque, 7th. Closed Sunday.
HOTELS
Paris is probably one of the best cities in the world to find an inexpensive hotel; the city full of them. If you're willing to give up some of the comforts you're used to (like elevators, a mini-bar and big fluffy towels—and in some cases your own private bath), you can easily find an inexpensive hotel in Paris .
How inexpensive, you ask? The following hotels all cost under 70 € for a single room.
THE LEFT BANK
Hôtel des 3 Colleges:
This hotel is sparkling clean and très modern. Minimalist décor give it a sleek look. It's located on a quiet street just off of Boulevard St.-Michel near the Sorbonne and the Pantheon. The least expensive rooms might be tiny, but they have all of the necessities: desk and chair, double-glazed windows, direct-dial phones, TV, hairdryer, and fully equipped bathrooms.
Prices for a single room start at 65 €, doubles start at 84 €.
(16 rue Cujas, 5th. Métro: St-Michel, Odéon. RER: Luxembourg , Cluny . Telephone: 01-43-54-67-30. Fax: 01-46-34-02-99. E-mail: hotel@3colleges.com).
Familia Hôtel:
This hotel is in just about every guidebook, and for good reason. It's in a great location and has clean, well-appointed rooms for an affordable price. The rooms may be small but they have nice touches, such as antique furnishings and pretty quilts. The owners live on site and make a special effort to make guests feel welcome. All rooms are equipped with either a shower or bath, WC, cable TV, hair dryer, mini-bar, and a direct-dial telephone. The prices are a bit more than the others listed but you can still find a single for 69 €, while a double will cost you 86 €.
(11 rue des Ecoles, 5th. Métro: Jussieu, Cardinal-Lemoine, Maubert-Mutualité).
This hotel is sparkling clean and très modern. Minimalist décor give it a sleek look. It's located on a quiet street just off of Boulevard St.-Michel near the Sorbonne and the Pantheon. The least expensive rooms might be tiny, but they have all of the necessities: desk and chair, double-glazed windows, direct-dial phones, TV, hairdryer, and fully equipped bathrooms.
Prices for a single room start at 65 €, doubles start at 84 €.
(16 rue Cujas, 5th. Métro: St-Michel, Odéon. RER: Luxembourg , Cluny . Telephone: 01-43-54-67-30. Fax: 01-46-34-02-99. E-mail: hotel@3colleges.com).
Familia Hôtel:
This hotel is in just about every guidebook, and for good reason. It's in a great location and has clean, well-appointed rooms for an affordable price. The rooms may be small but they have nice touches, such as antique furnishings and pretty quilts. The owners live on site and make a special effort to make guests feel welcome. All rooms are equipped with either a shower or bath, WC, cable TV, hair dryer, mini-bar, and a direct-dial telephone. The prices are a bit more than the others listed but you can still find a single for 69 €, while a double will cost you 86 €.
(11 rue des Ecoles, 5th. Métro: Jussieu, Cardinal-Lemoine, Maubert-Mutualité).
Hôtel de Brésil:
If you're looking for an inexpensive, clean place to stay in a great location, then this 30-room hotel located steps from Boulevard St.-Michel might be for you. The rooms were recently renovated and have simple but adequate furnishings. All of the rooms are equipped with either a shower or bath, WC, cable TV, hairdryer, and a direct-dial telephone.
The prices can't be beat: Single with shower: 62 €; double with shower: 66 €; double with bath: 76 €; Twin beds with bath: 81 €.
(10, rue Le Goff, 5th, Métro: St-Michel, Odeon. RER: Luxembourg , Cluny . Telephone: 01-43-54-76-11. Fax: 01-46-33-45-78. E-mail: hoteldubresil@wanadoo.fr).
If you're looking for an inexpensive, clean place to stay in a great location, then this 30-room hotel located steps from Boulevard St.-Michel might be for you. The rooms were recently renovated and have simple but adequate furnishings. All of the rooms are equipped with either a shower or bath, WC, cable TV, hairdryer, and a direct-dial telephone.
The prices can't be beat: Single with shower: 62 €; double with shower: 66 €; double with bath: 76 €; Twin beds with bath: 81 €.
(10, rue Le Goff, 5th, Métro: St-Michel, Odeon. RER: Luxembourg , Cluny . Telephone: 01-43-54-76-11. Fax: 01-46-33-45-78. E-mail: hoteldubresil@wanadoo.fr).
Hôtel Esmerelda:
Located just around the corner from Shakespeare and Company, along a tiny tree-lined street by the Seine , this hotel is legendary for its inexpensive rooms and its astounding views of Nôtre-Dame. The least expensive of 19 rooms is an unbelievable 30 € a night (just a sink mind you—no shower or toilet). However, be warned, this hotel is not for everyone and while some consider its shabby chic décor romantic, others will deem it simply shabby and not so chic (myself included). The rooms come in all shapes and sizes, with quaint country décor and squeaky floorboards.
Prices: Singles run from 30-70 €, doubles from 75-80 €, triple and quads from 90 €. Of course there are no TV's and don't even think about air-conditioning here.
(4, rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5th. Telephone: 01-43-54-19-20. Fax: 01-40-51-00-68).
Located just around the corner from Shakespeare and Company, along a tiny tree-lined street by the Seine , this hotel is legendary for its inexpensive rooms and its astounding views of Nôtre-Dame. The least expensive of 19 rooms is an unbelievable 30 € a night (just a sink mind you—no shower or toilet). However, be warned, this hotel is not for everyone and while some consider its shabby chic décor romantic, others will deem it simply shabby and not so chic (myself included). The rooms come in all shapes and sizes, with quaint country décor and squeaky floorboards.
Prices: Singles run from 30-70 €, doubles from 75-80 €, triple and quads from 90 €. Of course there are no TV's and don't even think about air-conditioning here.
(4, rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5th. Telephone: 01-43-54-19-20. Fax: 01-40-51-00-68).
SAINT-GERMAIN
Hôtel Saint-Pierre:
Just a short block from the center of Saint-Germain sits the Hôtel Saint-Pierre. This hotel, which is situated on a quiet street overlooking the L'école de médecine, has small, well-maintained rooms for a low price. Bathrooms are tiny but modern. All of the rooms have telephones, cable TV, a shower and a sink. Most have a WC as well, but for the least expensive you'll have to share one of the sparkling clean toilets that can be found on each of the seven floors. There's even an elevator, which is unusual for a hotel of this price. Singles: 51-69 €. Doubles: 55-76 €. (4 rue de l'Ecole de médecine, 6th. Metro: Odéon. Telephone: 01-46-34-78-80. Fax: 01-40-51-05-17).
Just a short block from the center of Saint-Germain sits the Hôtel Saint-Pierre. This hotel, which is situated on a quiet street overlooking the L'école de médecine, has small, well-maintained rooms for a low price. Bathrooms are tiny but modern. All of the rooms have telephones, cable TV, a shower and a sink. Most have a WC as well, but for the least expensive you'll have to share one of the sparkling clean toilets that can be found on each of the seven floors. There's even an elevator, which is unusual for a hotel of this price. Singles: 51-69 €. Doubles: 55-76 €. (4 rue de l'Ecole de médecine, 6th. Metro: Odéon. Telephone: 01-46-34-78-80. Fax: 01-40-51-05-17).
Delhy's Hôtel:
This hotel is a budget-seeker’s dream. The location is superb, the immaculate rooms are nicely furnished, and you can't find much lower prices in Paris . Of course, for the lowest priced rooms you'll have to use the toilet down the hall and the shower on the first floor (both spotlessly clean). There are, however, cable TVs and direct-dial phones in every room.
Prices: With sink only (a shower will cost you 4): single: 39-52 €, double: 58-64 €, triple: 80-94 €. With shower: single: 66-73 €, double: 72-80 €, triple: 94-115 €. All with tax and breakfast included.
This hotel is a budget-seeker’s dream. The location is superb, the immaculate rooms are nicely furnished, and you can't find much lower prices in Paris . Of course, for the lowest priced rooms you'll have to use the toilet down the hall and the shower on the first floor (both spotlessly clean). There are, however, cable TVs and direct-dial phones in every room.
Prices: With sink only (a shower will cost you 4): single: 39-52 €, double: 58-64 €, triple: 80-94 €. With shower: single: 66-73 €, double: 72-80 €, triple: 94-115 €. All with tax and breakfast included.
(22, rue de L'Hirondelle, 6th. Metro: St.-Michel. Telephone: 01-43-26-58-25. Fax: 01-43-26-51-06. E-mail: delhys@wanadoo.fr).
Hôtel de Nesle:
There is no other hotel in Paris quite like the Hôtel de Nesle. All of its 20 rooms have hand-painted frescos based on historic events and themes, and some of them are absolutely stunning. I fell in love with the Melanie—a beautiful room with wooden beams, French country furniture, a fireplace, a lovely rose-colored quilt, old photos hanging on the wall—it was simply charming. Another favorite was the Bonbonnière, a pretty room with mauve-colored walls, a white-beamed ceiling to match the painted white furniture, and a mosquito net hanging over the bed, which added the final touch. Some of the rooms overlook an exquisite rose garden and one even has a sauna--all this at unbelievably low prices. On the downside, many of the rooms are equipped with only a sink and you'll have to use the shower and toilet down the hall. They also can't guarantee which room you'll have, and there are no TV's, mini-bars, etc. But, you're in one of the best quartiers in Paris , and while the hotel does lack some amenities it more than makes up for it in charm.
Prices: Single: 50 €, 58 € , 69 €; Double: 69 € , 99 € . (7, rue de Nesle, 6th. Métro: Odeon. Telephone: 01-43-54-62-41. E-Mail: contact@hoteldenesle.com. Website :www.hoteldenesle.com).
There is no other hotel in Paris quite like the Hôtel de Nesle. All of its 20 rooms have hand-painted frescos based on historic events and themes, and some of them are absolutely stunning. I fell in love with the Melanie—a beautiful room with wooden beams, French country furniture, a fireplace, a lovely rose-colored quilt, old photos hanging on the wall—it was simply charming. Another favorite was the Bonbonnière, a pretty room with mauve-colored walls, a white-beamed ceiling to match the painted white furniture, and a mosquito net hanging over the bed, which added the final touch. Some of the rooms overlook an exquisite rose garden and one even has a sauna--all this at unbelievably low prices. On the downside, many of the rooms are equipped with only a sink and you'll have to use the shower and toilet down the hall. They also can't guarantee which room you'll have, and there are no TV's, mini-bars, etc. But, you're in one of the best quartiers in Paris , and while the hotel does lack some amenities it more than makes up for it in charm.
Prices: Single: 50 €, 58 € , 69 €; Double: 69 € , 99 € . (7, rue de Nesle, 6th. Métro: Odeon. Telephone: 01-43-54-62-41. E-Mail: contact@hoteldenesle.com. Website :www.hoteldenesle.com).
Saint-André des Arts:
If you're the type who wants to stumble out of your doorstep to be in the center of it all, then the Hotel Saint-André des Arts may be for you. Its location, on an animated street a short block from Saint-Germain, is lively day and night. For many this is the place to be in Paris , with the Buci Market, the art galleries on rue de Seine, and Boulevard Saint- Germain all close by. This family-run hotel was built in the 17th century and the original beams can still be seen throughout. The rooms themselves are a bit nondescript, with plain furnishings. Families will want to ask for one of the two double rooms on the roof, which are quite large and can sleep four. All the rooms have direct-dial phones and either a shower or bath with WC, but if you're the type who needs an elevator or TV, then you'll have to look elsewhere, as the Saint-André des Arts has none. The windows are double-glazed to drown out the sounds of the streets, but you might want to ask for a room overlooking the courtyard, especially in summer when you'll want to leave your windows open.
Single: 62 €, Double with one bed: 77 €, Twin: 83 €, Triple: 94 €, Quad: 105 €, breakfast included.
(66, rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 6th. Metro: Odeon. Telephone: 01-43-26-96-16. Fax: 01-43-29-73-34. E-mail: mailto:hsaintand@minitel.net).
If you're the type who wants to stumble out of your doorstep to be in the center of it all, then the Hotel Saint-André des Arts may be for you. Its location, on an animated street a short block from Saint-Germain, is lively day and night. For many this is the place to be in Paris , with the Buci Market, the art galleries on rue de Seine, and Boulevard Saint- Germain all close by. This family-run hotel was built in the 17th century and the original beams can still be seen throughout. The rooms themselves are a bit nondescript, with plain furnishings. Families will want to ask for one of the two double rooms on the roof, which are quite large and can sleep four. All the rooms have direct-dial phones and either a shower or bath with WC, but if you're the type who needs an elevator or TV, then you'll have to look elsewhere, as the Saint-André des Arts has none. The windows are double-glazed to drown out the sounds of the streets, but you might want to ask for a room overlooking the courtyard, especially in summer when you'll want to leave your windows open.
Single: 62 €, Double with one bed: 77 €, Twin: 83 €, Triple: 94 €, Quad: 105 €, breakfast included.
(66, rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 6th. Metro: Odeon. Telephone: 01-43-26-96-16. Fax: 01-43-29-73-34. E-mail: mailto:hsaintand@minitel.net).
Hôtel du Dragon:
The Hôtel du Dragon, at 70 € a single (90 € for two), was just able to make our list. It was such a beautiful hotel, though, that I felt compelled to include it. Located just a block from Saint-Germain and all of the famous literary cafés, it's a great place to stay in Paris . The Rabier-Roy family has owned this quaint little hotel for the last 80 years. The rooms, which were all decorated by Madame Roy herself, are just beautiful. They have been recently redone (except for two!) and have a provençal feel with lovely blue and yellow walls, wooden beams, and pretty country French furnishings. All rooms have either a shower or bath that are quite spacious, with pretty tiles. Despite its no-star status, the rooms are equipped with cable TV, direct-dial phones, a WC, and most have hairdryers.
(36, rue du Dragon, 6th. Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Sèvres-Babylone. Telephone: 01-45-48-51-05. Fax: 01-42-22-51-62. www.hoteldudragon.com).
The Hôtel du Dragon, at 70 € a single (90 € for two), was just able to make our list. It was such a beautiful hotel, though, that I felt compelled to include it. Located just a block from Saint-Germain and all of the famous literary cafés, it's a great place to stay in Paris . The Rabier-Roy family has owned this quaint little hotel for the last 80 years. The rooms, which were all decorated by Madame Roy herself, are just beautiful. They have been recently redone (except for two!) and have a provençal feel with lovely blue and yellow walls, wooden beams, and pretty country French furnishings. All rooms have either a shower or bath that are quite spacious, with pretty tiles. Despite its no-star status, the rooms are equipped with cable TV, direct-dial phones, a WC, and most have hairdryers.
(36, rue du Dragon, 6th. Métro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Sèvres-Babylone. Telephone: 01-45-48-51-05. Fax: 01-42-22-51-62. www.hoteldudragon.com).
MONTPARNASSE
Hôtel des Bains
One of the best-kept secrets in Paris , this quiet hotel is located a half-block from Boulevard Montparnasse and has been recently renovated. The rooms are tastefully decorated and have either carpeting or polished wooden floors, desks, cable TV with Canal Plus (a French movie channel) and English-language programming, and adequate storage space. All bathrooms have been recently redone and are equipped with a shower and hair dryer. All this will cost you 69 € for a room with one large bed and 75 € for a room with two beds. Two-rooms suites that are perfect for families cost anywhere from 91 €- to 137 €, depending on the size.
(33, rue Delambre, 14th. Métro: Vavin or Edgar-Quinet. 01-43-20-85-27. Fax: 01-42-79-82-78. E-Mail: des.bains.hotel@wanadoo.fr).
One of the best-kept secrets in Paris , this quiet hotel is located a half-block from Boulevard Montparnasse and has been recently renovated. The rooms are tastefully decorated and have either carpeting or polished wooden floors, desks, cable TV with Canal Plus (a French movie channel) and English-language programming, and adequate storage space. All bathrooms have been recently redone and are equipped with a shower and hair dryer. All this will cost you 69 € for a room with one large bed and 75 € for a room with two beds. Two-rooms suites that are perfect for families cost anywhere from 91 €- to 137 €, depending on the size.
(33, rue Delambre, 14th. Métro: Vavin or Edgar-Quinet. 01-43-20-85-27. Fax: 01-42-79-82-78. E-Mail: des.bains.hotel@wanadoo.fr).
Hôtel Delambre:
The owners of this popular Montparnasse hotel took a dilapidated one-star hotel and transformed it into a modern three-star hotel without the three-star prices. All 30 rooms have either a shower or bath, a hair dryer, direct-dial phones, and televisions with international reception.
Prices: Single: 65 €. Standard room: (1 or 2 people) 80 €. Superior room: 85-90 €. Mini-suite: which accommodates up to four guests: 120 €. (35, rue Delambre, 14th. Metro: Vavin or Edgar-Quinet. 01-43-20-66-32. Fax: 01-45-38-92-76. E-Mail: hotel@hoteldelambre.com). Hôtel Chaplain
Another Montparnasse hotel, which has been recently renovated, is the Hotel Chaplain in the southern part of the sixth. This small hotel is situated on a very quiet street that is one block from the Luxembourg gardens and one block from Boulevard Montparnasse. The décor is modern with a garden theme (think Monet's Water-Lilies), which was a bit busy for my taste, but is still très correct, as the French would say. For the price you'll get most modern conveniences, including newly renovated spacious rooms, private baths, color TV, direct-dial phones, a safe, and a hair dryer. Breakfast is served on the terrace, which over looks a small garden.
Prices: Single: 68-76 €. Double: 76-90 €. Triple: 105-111 €. Quadruple: 112-120 €. (11 bis, rue Jules-Chaplain, 6th. Metro: Vavin or Nôtre-Dame des Champs. Telephone: 01-43-26-47-64. Fax: 01-40-51-79-75).
The owners of this popular Montparnasse hotel took a dilapidated one-star hotel and transformed it into a modern three-star hotel without the three-star prices. All 30 rooms have either a shower or bath, a hair dryer, direct-dial phones, and televisions with international reception.
Prices: Single: 65 €. Standard room: (1 or 2 people) 80 €. Superior room: 85-90 €. Mini-suite: which accommodates up to four guests: 120 €. (35, rue Delambre, 14th. Metro: Vavin or Edgar-Quinet. 01-43-20-66-32. Fax: 01-45-38-92-76. E-Mail: hotel@hoteldelambre.com). Hôtel Chaplain
Another Montparnasse hotel, which has been recently renovated, is the Hotel Chaplain in the southern part of the sixth. This small hotel is situated on a very quiet street that is one block from the Luxembourg gardens and one block from Boulevard Montparnasse. The décor is modern with a garden theme (think Monet's Water-Lilies), which was a bit busy for my taste, but is still très correct, as the French would say. For the price you'll get most modern conveniences, including newly renovated spacious rooms, private baths, color TV, direct-dial phones, a safe, and a hair dryer. Breakfast is served on the terrace, which over looks a small garden.
Prices: Single: 68-76 €. Double: 76-90 €. Triple: 105-111 €. Quadruple: 112-120 €. (11 bis, rue Jules-Chaplain, 6th. Metro: Vavin or Nôtre-Dame des Champs. Telephone: 01-43-26-47-64. Fax: 01-40-51-79-75).
THE RIGHT BANK
Home to the Champs-Elysées, Rue Saint-Honoré, and the Louvre, the right bank is normally known for its lavish hotels like the Crillon, the Bristol and the Ritz. Not to worry though, thrifty travelers will still be able to find a hotel or two to suit their budgets.
Tiquetonne Hôtel
I almost gave up on visiting the Tiquetonne Hôtel. For one, I had already seen several hotels in the same price range and quite frankly I wouldn't stay in any of them. I wasn't so thrilled with the neighborhood either, as I walked from the métro near Les Halles. But I had read such good things about this little hotel in the second arrondissement that I had to check it out for myself. I was pleasantly surprised to find a nice hotel that offered basic, clean rooms for an incredibly low price. A simple single room with sink and bidet (shower and WC down the hall) will run you 24 €, whereas a double with shower will cost a modest 42 €—pas mal, eh? Don't expect any amenities here—no phone in your room, no TV, and no mini-bar, just the bare necessities and rock-bottom prices. The hotel has been run for the last 50 years by Mme. Sirvain and her niece Marie-Jo, who could not have been nicer during my visit. On my way home I followed the rue Tiquetonne back towards the Louvre and found this route to be quite charming—with shops, restaurants, and cafés—nothing like the seediness I had encountered near Les Halles.
( 6, rue Tiquetonne, 2nd. Metro: Etienne-Marcel, Reaumur-Sebastopol. Telephone: 01-42-36-94-58. Fax: 01-42-36-02-94).
I almost gave up on visiting the Tiquetonne Hôtel. For one, I had already seen several hotels in the same price range and quite frankly I wouldn't stay in any of them. I wasn't so thrilled with the neighborhood either, as I walked from the métro near Les Halles. But I had read such good things about this little hotel in the second arrondissement that I had to check it out for myself. I was pleasantly surprised to find a nice hotel that offered basic, clean rooms for an incredibly low price. A simple single room with sink and bidet (shower and WC down the hall) will run you 24 €, whereas a double with shower will cost a modest 42 €—pas mal, eh? Don't expect any amenities here—no phone in your room, no TV, and no mini-bar, just the bare necessities and rock-bottom prices. The hotel has been run for the last 50 years by Mme. Sirvain and her niece Marie-Jo, who could not have been nicer during my visit. On my way home I followed the rue Tiquetonne back towards the Louvre and found this route to be quite charming—with shops, restaurants, and cafés—nothing like the seediness I had encountered near Les Halles.
( 6, rue Tiquetonne, 2nd. Metro: Etienne-Marcel, Reaumur-Sebastopol. Telephone: 01-42-36-94-58. Fax: 01-42-36-02-94).
THE MARAIS
Grand Hôtel Jeanne d'Arc
If staying in one of the hippest neighborhoods in Paris , in a funky little hotel, at really low prices, appeals to you, then book a room at the Grand Jeanne d'Arc. This hotel is situated on a charming street in the heart of the Marais, just off the Place du Marché Saint-Catherine, one of the loveliest squares in Paris . Inside the rooms are simply—but nicely—decorated. 55 € will buy you small single room with IKEA type furniture, pretty blue walls and matching bedspreads, shelves, a desk, cable TV, phone and a small bath with shower. A larger room that accommodates two has antique furniture and a much bigger bath; it can be had for 64 € for one and 73 € for two. The rest of the hotel is bright and cheerful with some artistic touches. If this sounds like the place for you—book ahead because the rooms at the Jeanne d'Arc go fast!
( 3, rue de Jarente, 4th. Métro: Saint Paul . Telephone: 01-48-87-62-11. Fax: 01-48-87-37-31).
If staying in one of the hippest neighborhoods in Paris , in a funky little hotel, at really low prices, appeals to you, then book a room at the Grand Jeanne d'Arc. This hotel is situated on a charming street in the heart of the Marais, just off the Place du Marché Saint-Catherine, one of the loveliest squares in Paris . Inside the rooms are simply—but nicely—decorated. 55 € will buy you small single room with IKEA type furniture, pretty blue walls and matching bedspreads, shelves, a desk, cable TV, phone and a small bath with shower. A larger room that accommodates two has antique furniture and a much bigger bath; it can be had for 64 € for one and 73 € for two. The rest of the hotel is bright and cheerful with some artistic touches. If this sounds like the place for you—book ahead because the rooms at the Jeanne d'Arc go fast!
( 3, rue de Jarente, 4th. Métro: Saint Paul . Telephone: 01-48-87-62-11. Fax: 01-48-87-37-31).
Hôtel Sévigné
This 29-room hotel steps away from the Place de Vosges offers basic but adequate rooms at a low price. Rooms were recently renovated and are equipped with a small armoire, desk, television, direct-dial phones, and either a shower or bath. Industrial carpeting and floral bedspreads might lack that certain Parisian charm, but it's more than an adequate place to spend the night in a great part of Paris for an unbeatable price. Price: 55-75 €. (2, rue Mahler, 4th. Métro: Saint Paul . Telephone: 01-42-72-76-17. Fax: 01-42-72-98-28).
This 29-room hotel steps away from the Place de Vosges offers basic but adequate rooms at a low price. Rooms were recently renovated and are equipped with a small armoire, desk, television, direct-dial phones, and either a shower or bath. Industrial carpeting and floral bedspreads might lack that certain Parisian charm, but it's more than an adequate place to spend the night in a great part of Paris for an unbeatable price. Price: 55-75 €. (2, rue Mahler, 4th. Métro: Saint Paul . Telephone: 01-42-72-76-17. Fax: 01-42-72-98-28).
HOTEL ALTERNATIVES:
Pension Les Marronniers
A room in one of the chicest arrondisement in Paris with breakfast and dinner included for only 43 € a night? Ce n'est pas possible! Mais si, if you're lucky enough to snag a room at Les Marronniers—one of the last pensions (which is a rooming house where one can stay for a few days, a few weeks, or even a few years) in Paris. This lovely, family-run pension has been in the Poirier family for over 100 years and is run by Marie Odile, a woman who runs a very tight ship. There are 12 simply furnished rooms in all, most with a shower, but only one with a WC. Each one comes with a desk, shelves, a small refrigerator, and direct-dial phone. You'll be able to help yourself to the library and sitting room, where you'll find a collection of more than 200 films. A typical French breakfast is served every morning and at 7:00pm the guests all sit down together for a home-cooked three-course meal. And, did I mention the location? Located on the corner of rue d'Assas and rue Vavin in the 6th arrondissement, overlooking the Jardin du Luxembourg.
Prices: (meals included) single: 43-61 €; double: 54-82 €; triple: 74 €. There is a 20% discount for monthly stays.
(78, rue d'Assas, Escalier A-1st floor, 6th. Métro: Vavin or Nôtre-Dame des Champs. Telephone: 01-43-26-37-71. Fax: 01-43-26-07-72. Website: www.pension-marronniers.com. E-mail: o_marro@club-internet.fr).
A room in one of the chicest arrondisement in Paris with breakfast and dinner included for only 43 € a night? Ce n'est pas possible! Mais si, if you're lucky enough to snag a room at Les Marronniers—one of the last pensions (which is a rooming house where one can stay for a few days, a few weeks, or even a few years) in Paris. This lovely, family-run pension has been in the Poirier family for over 100 years and is run by Marie Odile, a woman who runs a very tight ship. There are 12 simply furnished rooms in all, most with a shower, but only one with a WC. Each one comes with a desk, shelves, a small refrigerator, and direct-dial phone. You'll be able to help yourself to the library and sitting room, where you'll find a collection of more than 200 films. A typical French breakfast is served every morning and at 7:00pm the guests all sit down together for a home-cooked three-course meal. And, did I mention the location? Located on the corner of rue d'Assas and rue Vavin in the 6th arrondissement, overlooking the Jardin du Luxembourg.
Prices: (meals included) single: 43-61 €; double: 54-82 €; triple: 74 €. There is a 20% discount for monthly stays.
(78, rue d'Assas, Escalier A-1st floor, 6th. Métro: Vavin or Nôtre-Dame des Champs. Telephone: 01-43-26-37-71. Fax: 01-43-26-07-72. Website: www.pension-marronniers.com. E-mail: o_marro@club-internet.fr).
When Les Marronniers is booked, Marie sends her guests to the Residence Pension Ladagnous, another pension in the same building, which has 24 rooms. While it may lack the family atmosphere of Les Marronniers, it's still a great place to find a clean, inexpensive room in one of the most sought after neighborhoods is Paris .
Prices: Single: 42.15 €; Double: 58.30 €; Triple: 75.45 €; Quad: 100.60 €. All rooms have a shower and sink. Breakfast is included; dinner is an additional 10 € a night. (78, rue d'Assas, Escalier B-2nd floor. 6th. Métro: Vavin or Notre-Dame des Champs. Telephone: 01-43-26-79-32. Fax: 01-43-54-60-61).
Prices: Single: 42.15 €; Double: 58.30 €; Triple: 75.45 €; Quad: 100.60 €. All rooms have a shower and sink. Breakfast is included; dinner is an additional 10 € a night. (78, rue d'Assas, Escalier B-2nd floor. 6th. Métro: Vavin or Notre-Dame des Champs. Telephone: 01-43-26-79-32. Fax: 01-43-54-60-61).
To really see how the French live, you might try booking a room in a Parisian Bed & Breakfast. Two reputable companies to try are Alcove & Agapes (8, bis Coysevox, 18th. 01-44-85-06-05), a B&B service that offers rooms in more than 100 homes in Paris (a double room will cost you anywhere from 45-115 € depending on the accommodations), and Good Morning Paris (43, rue Lacepède, 5th. 01-47-07-28-29), another company with 40 rooms throughout the city (rates range from 38 € for a single to 75 € for three).
So there you have it, definitive proof that you don't have to spend a fortune on a hotel in Paris . Paris is full of inexpensive hotels--you just have to know where to look.
Please let us know about any experience you have or have had with any of these hotels, as seeing a hotel is one thing, but staying in one is a whole different matter. We're always on the lookout for great hotels and would love to add one of your "finds" to our list.
