Bistrot Poulbot Buzz
Well! you go for a quiet lunch in
Montmartre at Bistrot Poulbot a sweet little address, recently
acquired by Veronique Melloul, ex- head chef in Tahiti, New Zealand,
Spain. “It's a wonderful metier, cooking opened up the world
for me,” she smiles. And you learn something really interesting.
“You know who Poulbot was of
course?” ask Alain
Fusion
and Alo. “No actually, I'm from Edgware”. They exchange looks,
as men do, such an airhead she is. “Francique Poulbot (1879-1946) was a painter, sculptor, illustrator”, they patiently explain. “His
most famous work was his book about Montmartre's children, illustrating
the impact of war on local children”, they explain. Apparently, the
last owner, who had Le Poulbot for 25 years named it for the
artist”.
Ms Melloul works alone in her kitchen, inspired by Mamie Louise, the grandmother who taught her to cook in the kitchen of the family restaurant, La Perle de Limousin. “It's a pizzaria now”, she says. Ecole Hotelier. Paris followed, then a tour du monde taking in Ferran Adria. “I love restaurants, never eat at home”, she admits. Of Adria she says: “It's an experience, but you don't learn anything. He's got 45 chefs, all working for nothing, and the clients are the cobayes (guinea-pigs). All anyone talks about is food and the relations with the clients are really odd. For me a restaurant is about joy and pleasure, not the techniques of polenta of frozen powdered parmesan that explodes before you can taste it!”
None of that molecular spume on the blackboards of Le Poulbot. A menu dedicated to Mamie Louise, “I use her portions”, says Melloul of the hearty slow cooked shoulder of Corréze lamb, creamy coco-beans served in a copper pan on the side. Begin with Potage Parmentier gratinée, or terrine and condiments, (delicious compote of onions) and warm pain de campagne.
Nice mains, say, risotto of Saint-Jacques, langoustines and encornets, emulsion bergamotte. Of course there's cheese, a fine Cantal, or a sexy souffle au whiskey, mandarines and compotes de mangues. Creamy semolina mousse with rum and raisins or carpaccio of strawberries, pineapple and mango. For wines see the photo, or choose a Bergerac La Gloire de Mon Pere, 5€ the glass or a bottle of Bergerac Chateau Tour des Gendres 2006 (25€). Service by Jonathan is comme il faut. A great bistro, Poulbot would be proud.
In 2008 Chateaux and Hotels de France became Chateaux et Hotels Collection. Under the direction of Alain Ducasse many of the hotels are offering special Spring Rates – 40% off a two night stay, petit dej compris. Ducasse also asked the C&H Collection hotel chefs (many with Michelin stars) to create special lunch menus based on French Culinary Heritage, priced at 28€. Forget the credit crunch, give yourself a break www.chateauxhotels.com because you're worth it.
Address:
Bistrot Poulbot,
38 rue Lamarck, 18th (Metro: Lamarck-Caulincourt)
T: 01 46 06 86 00
Shut Sun - Monday lunch
Lunch Starter, Main, Pudd – 17€
Dinner 30€ + wine
Plat du Jour 11€
