Stories
18th: Montmartre, Sacre Coeur
Paris - 18th Arrondissement
As far away from the center of the city (a good 30-minute metro ride‑60 minutes roundtrip) a place can be and still be in Paris, the 18th arrondissement remains a must-visit for many tourists. Here one can find Montmartre, with Place du Tertre and its crank-em-out artists—see the square, but save your money for Espace Dali at nearby 11, rue Poulbot to check out the Salvador's surrealist sculptures; or head to 12, rue Cortot to visit the former home of Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Maurice Utrillow, now the Musée de Montmartre, and worth a quickie 30 minutes in and out for a hat's off to the artists and Bohemians who made this area what it is today.
At the very top of the butte, the white-domed Sacré-Coeur Basilica awaits with pickpockets that will follow you all the way back down the hill to Place Pigalle, where the rotating, blinking red neon windmill of Le Moulin Rouge beckons and 60 Doris Girls kick their long legs to tempt one into afterward visiting the seedier side of Paris—the Red Light District, which bursts at the seams along nearby Boulevard de Clichy. For the less risqué tourists, a visit to Musée de l'Erotisme at 72, Boulevard de Clichy might be in order.
Take the métro to Abbesses, then get off and hike the spiraling, muscle-cramping staircase that is wildly painted by local artists, and if your legs can take it, it's worth the hike, if for no other reason than to say you've been there. Almost-the-top of the hill, search for Square Jehan Rictus, where you'll find a place to rest and the "I Love You" Mural (these words will be translated on the wall in over 300 languages). Then elbow your way up to Sacré-Coeur and sit on the steps and watch the other tourists checking out the beautiful Paris skyline ahead. For the lazy, stand in line for the Funicular—the little sky tram that zips you right up to the top of the butte with the use of a metro ticket.
Other things to consider doing once here: Head to rue Lepic to locate the Moulin Radet and the Moulin de la Galette‑the two last windmills of the area—and simply marvel at the charming neighborhood. Visit the Montmarte vineyard. Stroll through the Montmartre Cemetery because it's gorgeous (writer Stendhal and artist Degas rest here), but not worth the trip alone unless your hotel or apartment is in the 18th.
And shop. Porte de Clignancourt (Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen) is the King of Flea Markets in Paris (open weekends and Monday, from 7-7), and those new to shopping here should start at rue des Rosiers, where the more touristy Marché Vernaisson sells everything from bric-a-brac to the occasional great find; the Marché Serpette is a smidge less touristy, and hence, more Parisians will be sniffing the bistro and gardening items strewn about in the chaos; the Le Marché Biron focuses on higher quality finds.
For those searching for French linens, look no further than Marché Cambo; and the Marché Malassis, with its dome set forth to greet the eager shopper; both offer up doodads from the 1900s and other delicious secrets. The newest market, the Marché Dauphine offers up exquisite antiques under a glass roof. The shopping is great here, but it isn't for the feint of heart.
Destinations in the 18th: Montmartre, Sacre Coeur
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Artist’s Square
Here is the famous locale where dozens of artists gather during the daylight hours to demonstrate and sell their work
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Barbes
At the foot of the hill is the Barbes district which has a very exotic flare as dozens of different nationalities have converged here. There are many street vendors, excellent small-time boutique shops, and market stalls. Most of the shopping is very affordable.
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Basilique du Sacré Coeur
(Sacré Coeur Basilica)
For one of your best photo ops, head to the top of the basilica dome for a more complete view‑one that includes the Eiffel Tower. Sacré Coeur is popular with locals and tourists alike, so, go early; remember it’s a long way up (more than 200 spiraling steps).
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Cimetiere de Montmartre
This cemetery is known for its colossal plaster tomb stones and even more so, the people buried in them. There are over 20,000 graves here already and hundreds more are buried here annually. Some notable patrons are composer Michel Berger, Bluebell Girls founder Margaret Kelly, Italian actress Dalida and painter Edgar Degas among countless others. -
Eglise Saint Jean de Montmartre
This Art Nouveau style church was one of the first to use concrete, brick, and ceramics as building materials. It has been the center of much architectural controversy over the years. -
Espace Dali
Right by the very square where dozens of artists converge daily to make a few bucks is the museum dedicated to the genius mind and works of Salvador Dali. The building holds over 300 of the artist’s best works.
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Goutte d’Or
The city had a brilliant idea at one point – to create a “street of fashion.” There are dozens of fashion designers from all over the world that hold shop here. -
Marche aux Puces St. Ouen
Just north of the city limits, above Montmartre, lie the Puces St. Ouen, an enormous flea market. The puces are an endless treasure trove (and home to a lot of junk too), and if you’re willing to fight through the crowds, loud and pushy vendors, and junk, you could find some great deals. The unofficial market assails you just after you step off the metro. Here you can find lots of trendy jewelry, clothing, scarves, bags, and so on. Don’t buy anything without trying to lower the price, because the most of the vendors (with the exception of a select few who have set prices) don’t expect to get their asking price and it’s not too difficult to bargain here. Watch out for the guys selling fake designer bags and sunglasses, and stick to the actual booths. Further up, the official market starts, which is a maze of more established stalls, subdivided into categorized markets, with its own maps. The official market is mainly home to antiques, and you can find lots of interesting furniture here, along with old jewelry, vintage clothes, and old maps and advertisements. Good deals are to be found here too, but you have to look a little harder, because the prices are much more expensive.
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Montmartre
The hill of Montmartre sits about 130 meters high and at its peak is the iconic Basilica of the Sacre Couer. It is known for its rich history which included it’s ancient ties to the priesthood, an artist community during the 20th century that included Dali, Monet, Picasso, and Van Gogh, and today as a lively nightlife hub. -
Montmartre Funicular
(Funiculaire de Montmartre)
The funicular transports 6,000 people a day (about 2 million/year) to and from the base of the Montmartre summit to the base of Sacré-Coeur. This is an automated alternative to taking the 200+step rue Foyatier staircase.
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Moulin Rouge
Known for its iconic red windmill and even better known for its racy cabaret shows, the Moulin Rouge has inspired movies and books alike. It is so well known in fact, that it probably doesn’t need much more of an introduction. -
Moulin de la Galette
This cute little wooden windmill is one of two remaining windmills (Le Moulin Radet) in Montmartre, and certainly the most famous windmill in France.
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Musee de Montmartre: Montmartre Museum
The Museum of Montmarte was opened in 1960 in the oldest house in Montmartre that rests atop vineyards that still produce wine today. It showcases the political and artistic history of the lively and historically significant Montmartre village.
