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Paris
Paris may be known as the City of Light, but it's also the City of Passion. Lovers of language, architecture, culture and history will find plenty to feed their passions in the French capital.
To the north is the charming Montmartre, with the magnificent church of Sacré Coeur contrasted with the lusty and exotic area of Pigalle. To the south is Montparnasse, home to countless artistic and intellectual movements of the last century. To the west is the massive park, the Bois de Boulogne and to the east, another beautiful Parisian park, the Bois de Vincennes, both gloriously huge nature areas where lovers nestle during the day.
And in the very center are all the wonderful must-does: the top two Paris museums, the Louvre and D'Orsay; the majestic Eiffel Tower; the historical Notre Dame Cathedral; the romantic Place des Vosges; the very ritzy Place Vendôme (with the Ritz Hotel); Place de la Concorde, which offers one of the best views of Paris, the Meurice and Crillon Hotels (and where Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI were beheaded); the gorgeous view up the Champs-Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe; a catnap in the ultimate Parisian gardens, the Jardin des Tuileries and the Jardin du Luxembourg; strolls around the small and charming streets and the medieval Carnavalet Museum in the Marais; take a café crème and people watch in the perfect Paris neighborhood of St.-Germain-des-Prés; a photograph session in front of Opera Garnier, and go inside to see the Marc Chagall painted ceiling; and a moment of awe when you walk over Pont Alexandre III towards the golden-domed Les Invalides.
Twenty arrondissements (districts) spiral out from the plate-sized landmark Point Zero in the middle of Paris (in front of Notre Dame Cathedral), from where every village in France is measured. Paris is the most densely populated major city in the developed world (two and a half times more dense than New York), 65 square miles where tremendously varied inhabitants add new character every day. Immigrants make up nearly 20% of Paris's metropolitan population of more than 11,000,000, and are composed mostly of Southeast Asians and North Africans, including the Tunisian-born mayor of Paris, Socialist Gay Bertrand Delanoë. Family-owned businesses specializing in high-quality goods such as jewelry, perfumes and fashion bring in substantial revenue, but tourism is the city's biggest industry, with more than 25 million visitors annually.
When it comes to weather in Paris, be prepared for the unpredictable. Winter can bring snow, but rain is more likely. August can be stifling (95°F and over), but the average temperature is a pleasant 53°F.
Parisians get a bad rap for being rude, but this is simply a cultural misunderstanding. Just as we would consider not accepting a hand shake to be rude, they tend to consider a simple, "Can you help me?" discourteous without the customary intro tag line. Open their verbal doors with the right key "Excusez-moi de vous déranger" ("I'm sorry to disturb you"), and they'll charmthe pants off you.
Destinations in the Paris
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1st Arr
Paris - 1st Arrondissement
The 1st arrondissement is home to the Louvre -- the world's largest, most exquisite art museum. How best to see the Louvre is your business, but we highly recommend not entering through the I.M. Pei pyramid entrance -- there are many other entrances that can shoot you to the Mona Lisa much faster; and although Mona is a must-do, seeing the Winged Victory of Samothrace atop the marble Daru staircase will change something in you -- and in an indescribable, yet good way -- the statue is placed where it is the epitome of majestic. You can do enough of the Louvre in a day -- just remember to cross the street and stroll through the Jardin de Palais Royal after. You'll also want to take a coffee in the quintessential Parisian Park, the Jardin des Tuileries, and to miss a visit to Place Vendome would be a crime (although, being the richest square in the world, you'll also have to commit a crime to purchase anything there). Other worth notings: Place des Victoires, Musée l'Orangerie, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, rue St. Honoré and La Conciergerie.
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2nd Arr
Paris - 2nd Arrondissement
The 2nd Arrondissement, as central as it is, is often considered rather unremarkable. First and foremost, it's the financial district of France, housing the French stock exchange -- the Bourse. The one site tourists tend to visit the most is the Biblioteque Nationale -- although it tends to be a spot people visit if they're going past on their way to other destinations, or they've been to Paris countless times and want to explore more. Those who love to rent apartments when they visit Paris, will often rent on or near rue Montorgeuil, because the market is fantastic. If you venture too far in the wrong direction, you might bump into a prostitute (they work rue St-Denis pretty hard -- still, after all these hundreds of years). The covered passages and shops (Galerie Colbert, Passage des Panoramas, Galerie Vivienne) are delightful places to happen upon. And, of course, Les Halles (watch out for pickpockets) and the Grands Boulevards are hot spots for shopaholics.
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3rd Arr
Paris - 3rd Arrondissement
When people talk about wanting to live in the Marais, it's generally the quieter 3rd Arrondissement in which they are discussing. The 4th might have some of the more exquisite bits, but the 3rd is not without its must-sees. Musuem lovers will often choose Musée Picasso after the Louvre and D'Orsay, and Musée Carnavalet follows as a close fourth. Most don't even think about visiting the très-interesting Conservatoire des Arts et Métier, which has all sorts of inventions on display, including Foucault's Pendulum and some of the original planning of the Statue of Liberty. Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme and Les Archives Nationales, along with sweet little parks and yummy eateries also help to make this arrondissement one of the better places to live and visit in Paris.
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4th Arr
Paris - 4th Arrondissement
The 4th Arrondissement has one of Paris' must-see jewels: the charmingly gorgeous square, Place des Vosges. Grab a baguette and some cheese and have a little picnic, and voila -- Paris on a budget at its very best. The 4th is also the heart of the Marais, known for its gay community (as well as very happy tourists), the Mariage Freres tea salon, the crazily designed modern art museum Georges Pompidou Center, the bizarre (and must-eat-a-sandwich-at) Igor Stravinsky Fountain, the open-on-Sundays rue Croix de la Bretonnerie, and some of the cutest little shops you've ever seen. The 4th is also made up of Paris' two islands -- Île St Louis, where you'll find the scrumptious Berthillon ice cream, and Île de la Cité, where you'll find the gothic Cathédrale de Notre Dame. Other finds: the glorious stained glass inside La Sainte Chapelle; the mayor's house, Hotel de Ville; Tour St Jacques; Le Mémorial de la Shoah (The Holocaust Memorial); Maison de Victor Hugo and more. At least a day in the 4th is required Paris-Tourism-101, and you won't want to miss it!
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5th Arr
Paris - 5th Arrondissement
The 5th -- home of the Sorbonne University -- is considered the real Latin Quarter. St. Michel is the busy bustling area nearest the Seine, and the closer you get to the border of the 6th, the more charming medieval alleys you'll find yourself in. But the 5th also shares part of the Luxembourg Garden with the 6th, and that‘s an area not to be ignored. Other areas of interest: the Arenes de Lutece (the ruins of the Gallo-Roman era), Musée du Moyen Age (with its famous medieval tapestry, the Lady and the Unicorn), Musée de l'Institut du Monde Arabe, Musée Curie, and the Botanical Gardens named les Jardin des Plantes (with its zoo, La Ménagerie -- check for that ostrich guarding her eggs) and its Natural History Museum. If you can’t find a good apartment or hotel in the 6th, look for one here that’s snug up to the border near the Seine. -
6th Arr
Paris - 6th Arrondissement
Hello Paris! For the majority of Parisians and those who travel to Paris religiously, the 6th arrondissement is the perfect neighborhood (made of of three important areas: the Latin Quarter, the Luxembourg Garden area and the village of St.Germain-des-Pres). Here you have churches (must-see St. Sulpice and l'Eglise St.Germain-des-Pres), museums (Musee Delacroix, Musee de la Monnaie, Musee Zadkine, Musee d' Histoire de la Medecine), lovely strolls (along the Quai Voltaire and Pont des Arts), charm to the nth degree, and two other things that make the 6th what it is: the Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens) and the French cafe culture. Can you hit a nice cafe anywhere in Paris? Anywhere. But the three cafes that stand out as the big boys are all within paper airplane throwing distance from each other in the heart of St. Germain des Prés: Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots, and Café Bonaparte (the less touristy of the lot). Also expect perfectly charming streets -- think rue Buci, rue St. Andre des Arts, rue Jacob -- full of quaint shops and yummy patisseries, bakeries, wine shops, etc. If you're going to get lost in Paris, best get lost here -- then cross your fingers and hope nobody finds you!
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7th Arr
Paris - 7th Arrondissement
First destination stop for those heading to Paris will almost always be the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement. Seeing the majestic tower is almost surreal -- and certainly exciting -- but visitors beware: the lines will be long, the tour busses will seem to have the advantage, the food (unless you call ahead at least three months in advance to dine at Jules Verne) is expensive and atrociously bad, and once you get up top, you'll have this gorgeous view of Paris -- without the Eiffel Tower in it! Still, you have to go. Best to arrive first thing in the morning, before it even opens, to beat the lines (this way you'll also beat the lines you'll have to wait on to get to one elevator after another once on the tower). If you don't plan to do the Eiffel Tower pre-opening, then don't be too ambitious with your schedule for the rest of the day -- a visit planned at the wrong time, can eat into the better part of a day. Another head's up... as easy as it is to get around Paris, the Eiffel Tower's metro stops seem to be quite some walking distance. Other things to do in the 7th arrondissement: Another first-visit must-do if you want a smaller musuem than the Louvre: the Musée d'Orsay is the second most visited museum in Paris. Les Invalides has Napoleon's Tomb inside, and is as majestic as it is astounding. The outside of Hôtel des Invalides -- especially approaching it at sunrise or sunset from Pont Alexander III, is amazing. Perhaps the most underrated must-do on a first trip to Paris is a visit to the Musée Rodin -- after marveling at the sculptures inside and out, plan a lunch in the garden, simply because it's a gorgeous place to be. For shopping, nothing will beat Le Bon Marché and it's glorious la Grande Epicierie de Paris.
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8th Arr
Paris - 8th Arrondissement
For the visitors who have waited all their lives to find themselves in Paris, standing on the famous boulevard Champs Elysées will bring, perhaps, the biggest thrill of all. It’s so, well, Paris! It will also bring elbow to elbow tourists from around the world and sodas that cost an arm, a leg and a mortgage-payment for those too entranced not to sit down at one of the cafes. Best to keep walking and head to the Arc de Triomphe, where, once on top, one of the most beautiful views of Paris awaits. Both the Champs-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe are must-sees for the first time tourists, as are Place de la Concorde (the best street level view of Paris -- found at the opposite end of the Champs from the Arc). Finish off your visit in the 8th over a hot chocolate at the Crillon or Le Meurice. And if you have any time left over, you have your pick of the following (and then some!): Musée Jacquemart-André, Musée du Petit Palais, Galeries nationales du Grand Palais and La Madeleine. The 8th Arrondissement is certainly one of the heavy hitter tourists destinations in the City of Light.
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9th Arr
Paris - 9th Arrondissement
The 9th arrondissement offers up everything from exquisite elegance -- the Opéra Garnier -- to the sleaziest side of Paris -- Pigalle. If you stick close to the southern side of the 9th, you'll do best and, indeed, you'll not want to miss a photo in front of the Opéra, and a quick jaunt inside to see the Chagall ceiling. The rest of the good stuff can wait until your second trip to Paris -- Musée Grévin, Musée Gustave Morea, and shopping along les Grands Boulevards. Pigalle should probably be skipped for now. -
10th Arr
Paris - 10th Arrondissement
The 10th Arrondissement offers up the Canal St-Martin for tourists. For those who want to cycle, stroll down the tree-lined promenade or cross an iron footbridges, have a coffee at an outside cafe along the canal or catch a barge to La Villette. The Musee de l'Eventail is a quaint little museum offering up the history of hand fans. And for those interested in cheaper hotels at a major artery on the Paris Metro, Place de la République (sharing the 11th and 3rd arrondissement, too) is a good bet. Not a bad stopping place for kids at night, due to the merry-go-round and easy restaurants.
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11th Arr
Paris - 11th Arrondissement
If nothing else, the 11th arrondissement is the capitol of Paris Nightlife. The suburbanites tend to rush to the Bastille to dance and drink, while the city centerites tend to hit the doors in the Oberkampf. These are the hip neighborhoods of Paris -- where the youth of Paris go to play and live because they can actually afford to be here (although less and less so, as it has become trendier and trendier). Change has always been the face of the Bastille. On July 14th, 1789, Parisians began the French Revolution here. And what was then a stormed Bastille full of chaos and uprising, is now the Opéra Bastille (the new opera house, not to be confused with the older, gorgeous Opéra). Funky shops and hotels abound in the 11th arrondissement. And for those needing to cash in on a little tourist action, Bofingers restaurant offers up a hefty serving of touristy choucroute, and the Musée Edith Piaf and Cirque d'Hiver offer a fullness to those who crave museums. Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine has off-the-beaten path charm for those who want an old-world walk. For shoppers, especially on Sunday, rue des Francs-Bourgeois is the place to bring your euros, as the shops are an endless mix of sweet chain stores versus specialty shops of every kind -- with the added bonus that if you keep walking southwest, you'll stride into place des Vosges in the Marais. Not an altogether bad time.
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12th Arr
Paris - 12th arrondissement
Now if you're thinking to yourself, "Wow, I'd love to go to the Louvre or the Eiffel Tower, but I just don't have the time. Wonder if there's anything else I can squeeze in," then a trip into the 12th arrondissement on the swanky ultra-futuristic metro line 14 from Madeleine to Halles de Bercy (otherwise known as Bercy Village -- hectares of refurbished white wine warehouses) is perfect. The shops and restaus at Bercy tend to be French chains, but there are tons of them, and all have outside seating -- but still, you go for whatever outside art exhibit they might have... and if there isn't one, or it disappoints, at least you went on the very cool, Météor (metro sans driver), where you were able to rest your weary Museum'd out legs. The wildly angled, architecturally designed Frank Gehry Cinémathèque Française (formerly the American Center -- meant to promote arts and good spirits between the French and Americans, but it went over budget) does have excellent exhibits if you find your 2nd wind when you arrive. The permanent and temporary exhibits range from themes such as costumes to ¡Almodóvar to Georges Méliès, magicien du cinéma and more. If you're up for a good pop concert, plan ahead to see the likes of Céline Dion, Radiohead, James Blunt, Kylie Minogue, etc., at the Palais Omnisports de Paris Bercy... or heck, go to see the New Jersey Nets take on the Miami Heat in Basketball.
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13th Arr
Paris - 13th Arrondissement
The 13th arrondissement is probably most well known with locals as having a hopping nightlife around the Seine. There's also the larger Chinatown here (most don't know about the one in Belleville in the 20th), adjacent to the"villagey" Butte aux Cailles. As well, for the lovers of tapestries, the Manufacture des Gobelins still make tapestries that can be purchased here. And although the mistress of Francois Mitterand is no longer on media display, the Bibliotheque Nationale de France Francois Mitterrand is worth a visit, if not for the books, than for the glass building with its modern "bookend" architecture. For the rest of the 13th? Probably best to leave it to the residents who live there. -
14th Arr
Paris -- 14th Arrondissement
Some think the 14th is the most exciting outer arrondissement in Paris. And for those who aren't dripping in jewels, or those who don't want to be part of the Montmartre village in the 18th, and for those who just want to be a part of the historical Montparnasse area, the 14th rules. Simone de Beauvoir, Jean Paul Sartre, Maupassant didn't only live and love her, but they're buried at the famous Montparnasse Cemetery (second only to Pere LeChaise). It is here in the 14th where you'll find three of Paris' most touristy restaurants: Le Dome (for it's exquisite fish); La Closerie des Lilas Cafe (for it's extraordinarily snooty waiters); and La Coupole Brasserie, which might just be one of the best dining rooms in all of France (the food is good, and there's also dancing!). For those who want to get down, and we mean down, head underground to the Catacombs to experience a creepy resting place for thousands of skulls; and the Vanves Flea Market is considered by many to be the most intoxicating. The spirit of Montparnasse, perhaps, came with the creativity of those who used to call these their stomping grounds -- Gertrude Stein, Ezra Pound, Henry Miller, Man Ray, Picasso, Klee, Chagall, de Beauvoir, Sartre and Maupassant, just to name a few -- but continues to thrive with the special Parisians who choose this area to be their home. For those who want to venture out from the very center of Paris, head here first.
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15th Arr
Paris 15th Arrondissement
A residential neighborhood (and a section of Montparnasse), the 15th arrondissement might be best left for those needing a less expensive hotel, or those who are on their second trip to Paris and are ready to explore more than the usual tourist sites. But once here, what should you do? Start at Parc Andre Citroen and take a ride in the world's largest hot air balloon (actually, it's really helium). For those who crave museums, you can't go wrong with the Musée Pasteur, where you can view many of the scientists instruments and scientific work, and afterward, stroll outside to find his rather wild mausoleum. France's largest exhibition center, the Parc des Expositions can be found here. If you have absolutely nothing better to do, you can always visit the not so exciting Tour Montparnasse (think the Empire State Building without any charm). You'll get to see all of Paris, but usually through a very hazy sky.
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16th Arr
Paris - 16th Arrondissement
If arrondissements were women, the 16th would be the exquisite Catherine Deneuve -- cool, with that certain je ne sais quoi, wearing Chanel, pearls and sipping Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Being haute residental, most people tend to ignore this arrondissement's tourist side -- and for the most part, that's understandable. But if you've already been to Paris once, the 16th might be the next best arrondissements to branch out and explore. In order of most-interesting on down, we recommend: the Trocadéro (with the gorgeous horse sculptures fountain and nicer take on the Eiffel Tower); a stroll down too-expensive-for-anyone Avenue Foch and up to place de l'Étoile to garner a different view of the Arc de Triomphe; the Bois de Boulogne (where one can go horseback riding, play tennis, even camp); Palais de Chaillot, Maison de Balzac, Musée de l'Homme, Musée du Vin, Musée Marmottan-Monet, Palais de Tokyo, Musée du Cristal de Baccarat, Cimetière de Passy, Musée de la Contrefaçon, and Musée du Cinéma Henri Langlois. Stay tuned for more. There's money here, so there will always be the new best thing taking place.
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17th Arr
Paris - 17th Arrondissement
Other than looking for a hotel that's not too far out of the city center, and that's safe, there's probably no other reason to visit the mostly-high-income-residential 17th other than hitting the English-styled Parc Monceau -- but Parc Monceau (which is also shared with the 8th arrondissement) is reason enough to go. Lovers of French Impressionist Claude Monet's work will want this to be a must-do on their schedule, as five of his important works were painted here. Other delightful surprises await: a windmill, a pyramid, an oriental fort, les colonnades, a grand rotunda, an art nouveau entrance gate, gorgeous flowers in season, quite a few playgrounds and statues of famous Frenchmen peppered throughout. All this and it comes with free Wi-Fi access, too.
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18th Arr
Paris - 18th Arrondissement
As far away from the center of the city (a good 30 minute metro ride -- 60 minutes round trip) a place can be and still be in Paris, the 18th arrondissement remains a must-visit for many tourists. Here one can find Montmartre, with place de Tertre and its crank-em-out artists -- see the square, but save your money for Espace Dali at nearby 11 rue Poulbot to check out the Salvador's surrealist sculptures; or head to 12 rue Cortot to visit the former home of Renoir and Utrillow, now the Musée de Montmartre, and worth a quickie 30 minutes in and out for a hat's off to the artists and Bohemians who made this area what it is today); at the very top of the butte, the white-domed Sacré-Coeur Basilica awaits with pickpockets that will follow you all the way back down the hill to place Pigalle, where the rotating, blinking red neon windmill of Le Moulin Rougee beckons and sixty Doris Girls kick their long legs to tempt one into afterward visiting the seedier side of Paris -- the Red Light District, which bursts at the seams along nearby Boulevard de Clichy; for the less risque tourists, a visit to Musée de l'Erotisme at 72 Boulevard de Clichy might be in order. Whew. That's a lot of energy to expel in this visit. So, to start, take the métro to Abbesses, then get off and hike the spiraling, muscle-cramping staircase that is wildly painted by local artists, and if your legs can take it, it's worth the hike, if for no other reason than to say you've been there. Once spewed out at almost-the-top of the hill, search for Square Jehan Rictus, where you'll find a place to rest and the "I Love You" Mural (these words will be translated on the wall in over 300 languages). Then elbow your way up to Sacré-Coeur and either spend €4.50 entering, or spend the same for a coca-cola, then sit on the steps and watch the other tourists checking out the beautiful Paris skyline ahead. For the lazy, stand in line for the Funicular -- the little sky tram that zips you right up to the top of the butte with the use of a metro ticket. -
19th Arr
Paris - 19th Arrondissement
Expect 2008-2009 to be the changing of the 19th arrondissement. Paris' goal for this northern arrondissement is to create an outside public esplanade for cultural events and festivities. La place de la Bataille de Stalingrad has had a facelift.
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20th Arr
Paris - 20th Arrondissement
The 20th Arrondissement is the newest quartier in Paris. Originally a rural area, it slowly turned into part of the city landscape, developing its own unique neighborhoods: Belleville, Ménilmontant Charonne, Père-Lachaise, and Saint-Fargeau. Belleville is one of the most popular up and coming neighborhoods for the younger set. Although Belleville is a bit far out from the city center to rent an apartment or hotel room, there is charm to be found here and, if you don't mind the extra travel on the metro, the bargain for budget travelers is astoundingly good.
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The Luxembourg Garden
There are so many spectacular gardens in Europe but my favorite is the Luxembourg Garden. Perhaps because it encompasses so many different feelings for people (and children) and changes throughout the year.
After exploring every inch of it during the past twenty years, I never leave without being surprised by something new and different.
